Pizza, it seems, is one of those foods a city can never have enough of. In San Francisco, Delfina and Gialina are household names, as are Tony's and Patxi's. You can get thin crust or Chicago style. Heck, you can even get hand-tossed pizza from a food truck.

Enter Mozzeria, a new entry in the Neapolitan department from Russell and Melody Stein, self-trained cooks and first-time restaurateurs.

The Steins have taken over the old Il Cantuccio space in the Mission and turned it into their own Italian playground, with a 5,000-pound wood-fired oven imported from Naples as its piece de resistance.