Located in The Mission and boasting VPN certification despite several pies one would never see in Naples it was with high expectations that I approached Russ and Melody Stein’s Mozzeria, the small shop having received plenty of attention for its all-deaf staff but according to many not nearly enough for the quality of its product. Largely trattoria in concept featuring an array of pizzas plus a few small plates during counterside lunch with additional pastas and secondi appearing for table-service dinners it can rightfully be assumed that anyone importing a two-ton Stefano Ferrera oven is serious about their craft and with a minimalist décor of red, black, and wood as local arts decorate the walls the diners attention is squarely focused on the plate…or at least it should be after watching Russ expertly stretch, dress, and fire the rounds of ‘00’ dough. Burning around 850F on a combination of pecan and oak a pizza at Mozzeria begins with a smoky char to the pliable crust and featuring light saucing amidst pools of bubbly buffala mozzarella the Margherita DOP was a reliable classic while the crispy duck skin and supple flesh topping a crust flecked with sesame seeds that followed was simply stunning – a touch of hoisin and scallions served alongside added to outperform many more ‘authentic’ attempts throughout the United States.